where am i now? in bed, blogging, as usual.
I'll take the bait and post this incoherent mail chain. As Lewis notes, I had a choice between an old 7'1" gun and a 5'8" piranha. I should have been surfing the 5'8" all day. That's what happens when depend on others to make your surf equipment decisions for you. I at first was chiding Lewis for packing three boards and one leash, but that frustration quickly subsided when on of our friends produced an extra leash, and the sun came out.
photo credits go to the ever patient Ange. I thank the goddess that she was there to capture photographic evidence of my claim. You can see the look of exhaustion and relief on my face as I literally struggled, breathless, up the beach, doing my best to keep my body erect after a serious trouncing in the shore-break.
A double session in heaving barrels was more than my shriveled brain could handle. I returned home, picked up the fam from the airport, and then slept the sleep of the dead.
Sander, I need to add a 6' piranha to my quiver. I'll be calling you soon.
Begin forwarded message:
From: "Lewis"
Date: August 24, 2008 8:53:01 AM PDT
To: "agnoli", "Avery", "ryan", "Vasco"
Cc: "shayne", "Sander", "Marcus"
Subject: Re: are you surfing?
Makoto's adventures in sleep deprivation continue!
When we last heard from our intrepid hero, he had stayed up all night drinking tequila and incoherently blogging. Desperate for surf, he claimed "anything short of a drowning pit will do."
I dragged him to a spot just <location removed to protect the innocent> of a drowning pit, and the former Barrel Virgin delivered yet again. By day's end he was surfing my 5'8" in these waves, and surfing better than me.
Where are you now Makoto?
----- Original Message ----- From: "agnoli"
To: "Lewis"; "Avery"; "ryan"; "Craig"
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 7:33 AM
Subject: are you surfing?
I'm hung over, and i haven't gone to bed yet.
I need a surf to clear my head. anything short of a drowning pit will do.
Radiohead was cool, check it out on my blog.
call me if you want to get wet.
+Makoto
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