I wanted to take this opportunity to thank our sponsors for their generosity in supporting our sporting lifestyle. Without them we would be nothing, or at least much less than we are.
First shout goes out to FireWire surfboards. An excellent product that has changed my surfing for the better. On this trip I am riding a 6'6" "Alternator" (fat guy short board) supplied by Avery. Its a great board in both large and small waves, turns and goes down the line great. Its got a bit of a rocker, so doesn't paddle well in choppy conditions, but who surfs slop anymore anyway? The patented parabolic rails provide the push my surfing style was missing. I rode this board in head high beach break and loved every minute of it.
http://www.firewiresurfboards.com/index_01.php?news=2008
Second, but not least is our long time sponsor Sander. Both Lewis and I are riding Rusty Pirahnas (5'8" and 6'6"). The most versatile board in the Rusty line, comfortable in double overhead beach breaks and mushy points, the Pirahna is the must have goto board when your high performance short board isn't paddling you into the big ones, or giving you enough float across those mushy sections. The combination of epoxy skin and closed cell foam technology is so resilient that we have stopped packing ding repair kits on our trips.
Hurley, what can I say. Lewis and I are clothed head to toe in Hurley gear, we are both walking billboards for the brand we love. And what's not to love about their new spokesmodel? Again, Avery supplies the goods that keep us and our loved ones warm and dry. Shorts, shirts, jackets, its all good.
and Hurley again, for supplying wonderfully warm wetsuits. I've been wearing a Hurley 2/2 short sleeved suit for the entire trip and its kept me warm in cold offshores. If I stayed longer I'd need to trade up to a 3/2 full suit.
that's the call gang, today was a relatively simple day, drove to laida and surfed small waves, hung out in the sun, drank wine on the beach, slept a lot, and enjoyed the scenery.
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This morning Hossegor was bigger, colder, and offshore, reminded me a lot of ocean beach in the fall. paddled out with Woody from SF, the French weren't interested, they all went to le grav and south where the swell was smaller and peakier. After getting an ocean beach style beat down with relatively few rewards I can understand why.
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Another day on the cliff, read my earlier post for pre-heat action, the story is that CJ won in smaller Mundaka.
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We woke up early to surf the inner peak, it was good and almost hollow at times, as the tide sucked out we transitioned to the main peak where Lewis got a few bombs, i got a couple big ones, but not as good. Eventually the pros came out, the crowd formed on the cliff, and the judges delayed the call another hour.
So, I'm posting up between Occy on my outside, and Damien Hobgood on my inside. What's the protocol when you are clearly the worst surfer at the peak? I surfed a couple before bobbling a nice one, causing Damo to quip to Lewis. Occy wasn't having any luck either, failing to paddle into a bomb that Damien eventually got a barrel on. I caught another good one and decide to call it a day.
The throng on the cliff had grown to Saturday proportions, and the media clearly didn't have anything else to point their cameras at so I thought it would be good to not be part of the spectacle. Luckily I was paddling at 5 knots against a 5 knot current, and while the pros were getting free rides from the jet skis, I wasn't. So I spent a couple minutes floundering in front of the crowd before deciding to paddle for the harbor instead of the stairs. Eventually the kinder of the jet ski riders pulled up, I pulled myself onto the sled, and off we went. A much nicer way to ride.
As I walked up from the harbor Sherm was packing his car for France. He's going up to photograph Kelley, and then home. We will probably head up there tomorrow.
The surf here is getting smaller by the minute. Lewis' claim that he got the best waves of the day is probably on the money.
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check out lewis, and me in the background. around 1:53, and 2:10
respectively.
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